CHICAGO — St. Louis must wait at least one more year to celebrate another James Beard Award winner.
Rob Connoley, the chef and owner of Bulrush in Grand Center, did not win Best Chef: Midwest at the James Beard Foundation’s annual awards Monday at the Lyric Opera of Chicago, the so-called Oscars of the food world.
Christina Nguyen, of Hai Hai in Minneapolis, took home the honor.
Bulrush chef Rob Connoley is shown on March 9, 2023, in his highly acclaimed restaurant.
Connoley was a first-time finalist in the Best Chef: Midwest category, which covers chefs in Missouri, Iowa, Kansas, Minnesota, Nebraska, North Dakota, South Dakota and Wisconsin.
The other finalists were Ann Ahmed, of Khaluna in Minneapolis; Dan Jacobs and Dan Van Rite (jointly), of EsterEv in Milwaukee; and Tim Nicholson, of the Boiler Room in Omaha.
A St. Louis-based chef or restaurant has not won a James Beard Award since 2017, when Kevin Nashan, of Sidney Street Cafe, won Best Chef: Midwest.
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Also in 2017, Gioia’s Deli was one of five restaurants nationwide honored with the foundation’s America’s Classic award.
Gerard Craft of Niche was the first St. Louis chef to win Best Chef: Midwest in 2015.
Among the multiple St. Louis-based chefs and restaurants announced in January as James Beard Award semifinalists, Connoley was the only finalist for Monday’s honors.
Connoley opened Bulrush in 2019 at 3307 Washington Boulevard. The restaurant features a tasting menu of modern dishes inspired by the historical cuisine of the Ozarks.
The ingredients used at Bulrush are rigorously local and seasonal, including some items Connoley and his team forage themselves. The restaurant also follows a zero-waste policy.
After obsessing over making the 'perfect bagel' at home, Scott Lefton felt inspired to sell his New York-style bagels to the St. Louis community. With his brother-in-law Doug Goldenburg, they are making the 'bagel dream' happen. Video by Allie Schallert, aschallert@post-dispatch.com
